 |
|
News
| Business | Films
| Galleries | Music
| TheatreUK NEWS & BUSINESS :
News | Business
| Money | Property
| ViewsENTERTAINMENT : Books | Festivals | Bollywood | Bollywood News | Bollywood Films | Films
Galleries | Museums | Music | Parties | Theatre | Television
LIFESTYLE : Culture | Eating Out | Food & Drink | Health | Horoscopes | Home Decor | Garden
Shop | Style | Sports : MPCL | Travel | Weddings
MEMBER SERVICES : Directory | eGreetings Cards | enewsletters | Wallpapers | Sign-up | Discuss | Chat | Email
SHOP: Search | Categories | Basket | Speed Order | Shipping | Account | Terms | Refunds | Wish List
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||
|
||||||
|
||||||
|
||||||
|
||||||
|
||||||
|
|||
|
Kathmandu is really two cities: a fabled capital of convivial pilgrims and carved rose-brick temples; and a splenetic sprawl smothered in the pollution of diesel fumes, dirt, monkeys and beggars. The sights are heavily clustered in the old part of town from Kantipath west towards the Vishumati River. Creativity and patience are required to navigate the city's narrow, often unmarked streets, but if you lose your way, simply ask a passerby for directions. |
||
The Newars are regarded as the original inhabitants of the Kathmandu Valley, but their origins are shrouded in mystery. They speak a Tibeto-Burmese language, but their physical features range from distinctively Mongoloid to Indo-Aryan. It seems most likely that the Kathmandu Valley has long been a cultural and racial melting pot, with people coming from both east and west. This fusion has resulted in the unique Newari culture that is responsible for the valley's superb art and architecture. The Newari golden age peaked in the 17th century when the valley consisted of small city-states, and Nepal was a vitally important trading link between Tibet and the north Indian plains. The valley's visible history is inextricably entangled with the Malla kings. It was during their reign, particularly in the 1600s and 1700s, that many of the valley's finest temples and palaces were built. Competition between the cities was intense and an architectural innovation in one place would inevitably be copied throughout the valley. The unification of Nepal in 1768 by Gorkha's King Prithvi Narayan Shah signalled the end of the Kathmandu Valley's fragmentation. Nepali, an Indo-European language spoken by the Khas of western Nepal, replaced Newari as the country's language of administration. In 1816 the Shahs closed the borders of Nepal and kept the country isolated until the mid 20th century. In 1846 a bloody massacre of Kathmandu's 100 most powerful men, held in the very public forum of Durbar Square, ended the Shah dynasty and installed the Ranas. The Ranas weren't too taken with the Shahs' policy of isolation, and the first Rana maharaja set off for Europe with a huge entourage, visiting Queen Victoria and causing quite a stir in stuffy old England. The Ranas were so impressed with European architecture that they began introducing neo-classical buildings into their own cities, including the 1904 Singha Durbar. The Ranas began dressing like European royalty, and imported all the latest inventions which, strangely enough, never found their way beyond the royal compounds into the homes of ordinary folk. During this period of royal extranvance, the majority of people in Kathmandu became much poorer and the Hindu caste system became much more rigid - on the other hand, human sacrifice, slavery and sati were abolished. On 15 January 1934 a huge earthquake struck the Kathmandu Valley, killing 4296 people and destroying many of Kathmandu's temples and palaces. Inspired by the independence movement in India, Nepalis began a political upheaval - an alliance was formed between the ousted Shahs, the army's Gurkha regiments and the dissatisfied poorer extended families of the Rana clan. In November 1950 they revolted. King Tribhuvan, a Shah, was anointed ruler in 1951 and struck up a government comprised of Ranas and members of the newly formed Nepali Congress Party. Power, of course, remained with only one party - the king's. After months of uprisings, the Nepali people were finally granted democracy in 1989. In 1956, the first motorable road linked Kathmandu with India. Ten years later another highway opened, and in 1974 international air services began. Foreign aid began pouring in from the 1960s, bringing with it foreign aid workers and new prosperity for the city. Kathmandu's population tripled in 20 years, and the city sprawled, as modern houses sprang up to meet the needs of ex-pats and immigrants poured in from the country. In the 60s, the tourists also started flooding in, looking for cheap living and eastern answers to the questions of life. Freak St became the centre of the action, as the hippies set up a huge market for every type of drug, every hybrid philosophy and any kind of pie you could imagine. Kathmandu was transformed into a tourist mecca, and the jumping-off point for the new trekking industry. Although there was more money around, most of it remained in the pockets of the upper class - Kathmandu has one of the highest inflation rates in Asia, so the cost of living can really take it out of the average pay packet. Although the city's literacy and health have improved over the last 20 years, they're still nothing special, and lately burgeoning heroin addiction and caustic air pollution have been added to Kathmandu's problems. October-November, the start of the dry season, is in many ways the best time of year: the weather is balmy, the air is clean, visibility is perfect and the country is lush following the monsoon. February-April, the tail end of the dry season is the second-best period: visibility is not so good because of dust, but the weather is warm and many of Nepal's wonderful wild flowers are in bloom. In December and January, the climate and visibility are good but it can be chilly: cheaper hotels in Kathmandu - where heating is nonexistent - can be gloomy in the evening. The rest of the year is fairly unpleasant for travelling: May and early June are generally too hot and dusty for comfort, and the monsoon from mid-June to September obscures the mountains in cloud and turns trails and roads to mud. Kathmandu's festive calendar is hectic. Dasain, celebrated nationwide in October, is the most important of all Nepalese celebrations and features the biggest animal sacrifice of the year. Running a close second is Tihar (November), but unlike Daisan, animals are honoured rather than slaughtered. Other festivals celebrated nationally include the water-tinged Holi (March) and Chaitra Daisan (April), which is yet another bad day for animals. Hindu festivals include the Gai Jatra (August) and Buddhist celebrations include Buddha Jayanti (May). If you feel like a dip, pools in the major hotels can usually be used for a small fee, or you can check out the public pools at Balaju and at the National Stadium. Those who've left their trekking preparation until the last minute can drop by the Kathmandu Physical Fitness Centre for a workout, or maybe a post-trek sauna. Balloon flights take you above the pollution, and on a clear day it's a superb way to view the vast expanse of the Himalaya. Very much the centre of old Kathmandu, Durbar Square is a huddle of temples and shrines, with intricately carved roofs, doors and windows. Many buildings are ancient, having survived the great earthquake of 1933; others have been completely rebuilt, not always in their original form. A good place to begin exploring is the unprepossessing Kasthamandap, purportedly the oldest building in the valley. Although its history is uncertain, it was believed to have been built around the 12th century. At first it was a community centre, then a temple to the god Gorakhnath, and more recently, a gathering place for porters trolling for customers. Nearby is the Maju Deval, a Shiva temple with platform steps that are ideal for watching hawkers, rickshaw wallahs and souvenir sellers offering all sorts of services to credulous tourists. Other noteworthy sights include: the Great Bell which, when rung, is believed to ward off evil spirits; the Jaganath Temple, famed for its blush-inducing array of erotic carvings; the fearsome stone image of the six-armed Kala Bhairab; and the Taleju Temple, easily the most magnificent of the square's many temples - unfortunately, it's not open to the public; even the Nepalese are denied entrance and can only visit during the annual Dasain festival. Hanuman Dhoka (Old Royal Palace) The palace was originally founded during the Licchavi period, although most of it was constructed by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century. Marking the entrance is Hanuman's statue (1672), which commemorates the monkey god's brave assistance to Rama during the events of the Ramayana. Sheltered under an umbrella, the statue's face is smeared with red splodges - courtesy of paste applied by faithful followers. On each side of the palace gate stand stone lions, one ridden by Shiva, the other by his wife Parvati, while immediately above is a brightly painted niche illustrated with a ferocious Tantric figurine. Inside the palace are a number of chowks (courtyards), including Nasal Chowk. During the Rana dynasty, this courtyard was used for coronations - a practice which continues today. Mul Chowk is the site of sacrifices made to Taleju Bhawani, the royal goddess of the Mullas, during the Dasain festival. The western part of the palace, overlooking Durbar Square, is home to an interesting museum that celebrates King Tribhuvan's successful putsch against the Ranas. Wander inside and you get an eerie insight into his life: lots of personal effects, extensive photos and newspaper clippings and magnificent furniture and knick-knackery. Kathmandu's most famous street from the hippy overland days of the 1960s and 70s runs south from Basantapur Square. Its real name is Jochne but since the early 1970s it has been better known as Freak Street. In its prime, the street's squalor and beauty was irresistible: the smell of sweet incense, children fluttering prayer wheels, cheap hotels, ad hoc restaurants, and shops selling enlightenment, epiphany - anything. Not surprisingly, it made an instant rapport with the dusty-haired 'freaks' who gave the street its name. Love-ins are a thing of the past, but Freak Street's history and plum position in the heart of old Kathmandu still make it a popular destination. Patan, the second-largest city in the valley, lies just across the Bagmati River from Kathmandu, but it's a much quieter and less frenetic place to visit. The city is justly proud of its temples and artisans and it is their handiwork that provides the focus of the stunning Durbar Square - choc-a-block with the largest display of Newari architecture in Nepal. It includes the Royal Palace, which contains a richly decorated bathtub, and the two-tiered brick Jagannarayan Temple. Look up to the roof struts to see carvings of figures engaged in quite athletic acts of intercourse. A few minutes' walk north of the square is the Golden Temple, a Buddhist monastery guarded by sacred tortoises that potter around the courtyard; and the Kumbeshawar, reputedly the oldest (1392) temple in Patan. South of the square is an area of charming streets lined with metalsmiths and brassware shops. Patan's other attractions are flung further afield. Among them is a collection of four stupas, thought to have been built over 2500 years ago, and Nepal's only zoo, which features a reasonable assortment of rhinos, tigers, leopards and bird life. Palm readers gather in the park outside - they may be able to point out which animal you'll be reincarnated as. Tibetan carpets can be bought in Jawlakhel, east of the city. Bhaktapur is in many ways the most medieval of the three major cities in the Kathmandu Valley. Despite recent development, the city still retains a distinctly timeless air with much of its glorious architecture dating from the end of the 17th century. Most sights can be easily traversed by foot and include yet another Durbar Square, which is infinitely larger than Kathmandu's and has its fair share of temples, statues and columns, many with grisly histories behind them. For instance, the sculptor of the Ugrachandi & Bhairab Statues had his hands chopped off to prevent him from duplicating his masterpieces. Bhakatapur's second main square is Taumadhi Tole, which features Nyatapola, the highest temple in the valley, and Til Mahadev Narayan, an important place of pilgrimage. Nearby is Potters' Square, where thousands of clay pots are made and sold. East from here, through the sinuous streets of the old city centre, is Tachupal Tole, another square containing temples and monasteries plus craft museums. Sometimes it's best to take a break from temples and sit back and watch the unchanging rituals of daily life: the laying out of grain to dry in the sun; families collecting water or washing under communal taps; children playing simple games; dyed yarns flapping in the breeze; or potters at work throwing clay. Kathmandu's Tribhuvan airport is the only international terminal in the city. Not many airlines fly direct to Kathmandu: unless you're coming from Frankfurt, Bangkok or Dhaka, you'll probably have to change planes, or even airlines, in India. Domestic airlines fly throughout the country - the most popular route is Pokhara to Kathmandu. There are a bunch of bus services running from various cities in northern India to Kathmandu. Tour companies also run services from Kathmandu to Lhasa, in Tibet. Buses from Kathmandu's main station, on the Ring Road, travel to Pokhara and the Terai, while those for the Kathmandu Valley and Arniko Highway run from the City Bus Station. There are also more expensive tourist minibuses, mainly to Pokhara and Chitwan. Tribhuvan airport is east of the city, and you can get a taxi to Thamel for a fixed fare of about $3. The best way to see Kathmandu and the valley is to walk or ride a bike. Bus travel around the city is very cheap but unbelievably crowded, so much so that you'll probably miss your stop because there's no way you'll be able to see out the window. A dilapidated trolley bus runs from near the National Stadium to Bhaktapur. Taxis are reasonably priced, but you'll probably have to negotiate the price in advance as drivers are unwilling to use the meter. Many private cars are happy to give you a taxi service, but they don't have meters at all. Auto-rickshaws cost about half as much as cabs, though once again, you'll have to negotiate a price. Bicycle rickshaws are more expensive than cabs. You can't rent cars to drive yourself, but you can rent a car with a driver - a trip around the valley will cost you about $40 plus fuel. There are motorbikes for hire around Freak St and Thamel, but think twice before you get one - the air here is already horribly polluted, and a mountain bike will probably do the job just as well as a motorbike.
|
||
|
Click here to view a map of Kathmandu.
|
||
|
Business Information | About us | Opportunities | Press Room | Become a Contributor | Contact Us
Terms of Service | Privacy Policy | Terms of Contribution | Community Standards