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Pakistan
Few
Westerners know much about Pakistan beyond media impressions of
guns and drugs, communal violence and martial law, but it contains
some of Asia's most mind-blowing landscapes, a multitude of cultures
and a deeply hospitable people. It's the site of some of the earliest
human settlements, home to an ancient civilisation rivalling those
of Egypt and Mesopotamia, and the crucible of two of the world's
major religions, Hinduism and Buddhism.
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The
security situation in parts of Pakistan has been on the rocks
since 1997, with several areas previously considered safe
experiencing the same sort of violence and crime as in the
long-troubled Sind region. As well as the danger of being
caught up in sectarian skirmishes, travellers have occasionally
been the specific target of violence in Karachi and Lahore.
The situation has improved little since the bloodless coup
of General Pervez Musharraf in October 1999. While there are
still many safe and welcoming attractions in Pakistan, visitors
should excercise particular caution in troubled areas.
Sind,
the region in the south of Pakistan that includes Karachi,
was known as the 'Unhappy Valley' or the 'Land of Uncertainties'
by ancient travellers. With robbery, smuggling and gun-running
amongst Sind's biggest industries, the province remains a
dangerous place to visit to this day. Visitors planning to
travel to to Sind and the North-West Frontier Province, Punjab
and Baluchistan are advised to excercise caution and check
the current situation with their embassy.
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Destination
Facts
Full
country name: Islamic Republic of Pakistan
Area: 803,940 sq km (310,400 sq mi)
Population: 141.6 million
Capital city: Islamabad (pop. approx. 201,000)
People: Punjabi, Sindhi, Pashtun, Baloch, Muhajir
Language: Punjabi
Religion: 97% Muslim, 3% Christian and Hindu
Government: Federal Republic
President: Mohammad Rafiq Tarar
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Economic
Profile
GDP:
US$270 billion
GDP per head: US$2000
Annual growth: 5%
Inflation: 7.8%
Major industries: Textiles, food processing, beverages, construction
materials, clothing, paper products, shrimp, cotton, wheat, rice,
sugarcane, fruits, vegetables; milk, beef, mutton, eggs
Major trading partners: EU, US, Hong Kong, Japan, China
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Environment
Pakistan's
neighbours are an eclectic and ornery bunch: Iran to the south-west;
Afghanistan to the west and north; China to the north-east; and
India stretching down its eastern side. The southern coast abuts
the Arabian Sea.
The
country is composed of towering peaks in the north (including the
second-highest mountain in the world, 8611m/28,245ft K2), dry and
scrubby mountains in the west, an inhospitable plateau in the south-west,
barren deserts in the south-east and alluvial plains everywhere
else. These plains, constituting about a third of the country, are
Pakistan's 'heart', where most of its people live and most of its
food is grown. Coursing through all this tumult is the Indus River,
which falls from Tibet then travels 2500km (1550mi) south before
emptying through an immense delta into the Arabian Sea.
Natural
fauna in Pakistan's lowlands is patchy - mostly scattered clumps
of grass and stunted woodlands. However, as the landscape rises,
there are quite large coniferous forests and carpeted slopes of
multicoloured flowers in the northern mountains. Fauna includes
bear, snow leopard, deer and jackal. Pakistan's 800km (500mi) of
coastline teems with shark, shellfish and sea turtle, while the
Indus delta is home to the marsh crocodile.
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History
The
first inhabitants of Pakistan were Stone-Age peoples in the Potwar
Plateau (north-west Punjab). They were followed by the sophisticated
Indus Valley (or Harappan) civilisation which flourished between
the 23rd to 18th centuries BC. Semi-nomadic peoples then arrived,
settled down, and by the 9th century BC were blanketed across northern
Pakistan-India. Their Vedic religion was the precursor of Hinduism,
and their rigid division of labour an early caste system.
In
327 BC Alexander the Great came over the Hindu Kush to finish off
the remnants of the defeated Persian empire. Although his visit
was short, some tribes tell picturesque legends in which they claim
to be descended from Alexander and his troops. Later came the heyday
of the Silk Route, a period of lucrative trade between China, India
and the Roman empire. The Kushans were at the centre of the silk
trade and established the capital of their Gandhara kingdom at Peshawar.
By the 2nd century AD they had reached the height of their power,
with an empire that stretched from eastern Iran to the Chinese frontier
and south to the Ganges River. The Kushans were Buddhist and under
King Kanishka built thousands of monasteries and stupas. Soon Gandhara
became both a place of trade and of religious study and pilgrimage
- the Buddhist 'holy' land.
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The
Kushan empire had unravelled by the 4th century and was subsequently
absorbed by the Persian Sassanians, the Gupta dynasty, Hephthalites
from Central Asia, and Turkic and Hindu Shahi dynasties. The next
strong central power was the Moghuls who reigned during the 16th
and 17th centuries. A succession of rulers introduced sweeping reforms,
ended Islam's supremacy as a state religion, encourged the arts,
built fanciful houses and, in a complete volte-face, returned the
state to Islam once again.
In
1799 a young and crafty Sikh named Ranjit Singh was granted governorship
of Lahore. He proceeded over the next few decades to parlay this
into a small empire, fashioning a religious brotherhood of 'holy
brothers' into the most formidable army on the subcontinent. In
the course of his rule, Ranjit had agreed to stay out of British
territory - roughly south-east of the Sutlej River - if they in
turn left him alone. But his death in 1839 and his successor's violation
of the treaty plunged the Sikhs into war. The British duly triumphed,
annexed Kashmir, Ladakh, Baltistan and Gilgit and renamed them the
State of Jammu and Kashmir. Thus, they created a buffer state to
Russian expansionism in the north-west and, unwittingly, what would
transpire to be the subcontinent's most unmanageable curse. A second
war against the British in 1849 brought the empire to an end, and
the annexation of the Punjab and the Sind in the 1850s; these were
ceded to the British Raj in 1857.
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National
self-awareness began growing in British India in the latter stages
of the 19th century. In 1906 the Muslim League was founded to demand
an independent Muslim state, but it wasn't until 24 years later
that a totally separate Muslim homeland was proposed. Around the
same time, a group of England-based Muslim exiles coined the name
Pakistan, meaning 'Land of the Pure'. After violence escalated between
Hindus and Muslims in the mid-1940s, the British were forced to
admit that a separate Muslim state was unavoidable. The new viceroy,
Lord Louis Mountbatten, announced that independence would come by
June 1948.
British
India was dutifully carved up into a central, largely Hindu region
retaining the name India, and a Muslim East (present-day Bangladesh)
and West Pakistan. The announcement of the boundaries sparked widespread
killings and one of the largest migrations of people in history.
Kashmir (properly The State of Jammu and Kashmir), though, wanted
no part of India or Pakistan. When India and Pakistan sent troops
into the recalcitrant state, war erupted between the two countries.
In 1949 a UN-brokered cease-fire gave each country a piece of Kashmir
to administer, but who will ultimately control it still remains
unclear.
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Mohammed
Ali Jinnah, a prime mover of Muslim independence, became Pakistan's
first governor general but died barely a year into his new country's
independence. His deputy and friend Liaqat Ali Khan replaced him
but was assassinated three years later. What followed was a muddle
of quarelling governors general and prime ministers and a severe
economic slump. In 1956 Pakistan finally produced a constitution
and became an Islamic republic. West Pakistan's provinces were amalgamated
into a single entity similar to that in East Pakistan. Two years
later President Iskander Mirza - fed up with the bickering and opportunism
that pervaded Pakistani politics - abrogated the constitution, banned
political parties and declared martial law, a state Pakistan has
been in, in one form or another, ever since.
The
next two decades saw Pakistan racked by further war with India over
Kashmir, civil war between the east and west, and the declaration
of Bangladeshi independence, another war with India, and the execution
of one of its most charismatic prime ministers, Z A Bhutto. In 1977
Bhutto's chief of staff, General Muhammad Zia ul-Haq, took control,
insinuated himself successfully with the USA (thereby gaining valuable
foreign aid) and was widely feted as a hero of the free world. His
death in an air crash in 1988 opened the way for Bhutto's daughter,
Benazir to claim victory in the next election, the first elected
woman to head a Muslim country. She was toppled soon after but was
voted back into power in 1993.
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Benazir
Bhutto travelled widely, trumpeting Pakistan's investment potential
and casting herself, and her country, as role models for the modern
Muslim state. Her place in the hearts of her own people though was
endangered by a culture of official corruption. She was dismissed
as Prime Minister in November 1996 by the president Farooq Leghari.
Elections held in early 1997 returned her opponent Nawaz Sharif.
After India conducted nuclear tests in May 1998, Pakistan responded
in kind two weeks later, detonating five nuclear devices in south-western
Baluchistan. International condemnation was widespread, and sanctions
put intense strain on the country's economy.
It
was the 'ruined economy' that General Pervez Musharraf cited as
the main reason for a bloodless coup that took place in October
1999. The military stepped in, deposed Nawaz Sharif and then took
control of most of Pakistan's institutions. Musharraf issued a thinly
veiled warning to India not to meddle in their internal affairs,
and tension over nuclear capabilities between the two countries,
and the dispute over Kashmir, was screwed up a notch.
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