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Curry
is a history of the Indian sub-continent and its various rulers
through history of its food. It is also the story of curry as it
spread from the courts of Delhi to the Balti houses of Birmingham,
from the tiffin carriers of Bombay to the army canteens of Japan.
Lizzie Collingham's 'Curry A Biography' is an utterly fascinating,
original and accessible history of a food and a culture: the story
of India's many cuisines as well as the creation of Britain's most
popular food.
Curry
is the product of India's long history on invasion. In the wake
of the Mughal conquerors, an army of cooks brought rice dishes to
northern India. Portuguese spice merchants introduced vinegar marinades
and the chillies that had recently been discovered by Christopher
Columbus in the New World. The British Raj soon followed with their
passion for roast meat accompanied by cauliflower and beans; they
also added jam and apples to their curry recipes. When these new
ingredients were mixed with native spices such as cardamoms and
black pepper, they produced those distinctively Indian dishes -
biryani, vindaloo and jalfrezi. Almost every Indian dish is the
product of such fusion of different food traditions.
Curry:
A biography tells the story of an array of familiar Indian dishes
and the people, who invented, discovered, cooked and ate them. The
British relished the kaleidoscope: indiscriminately, they called
everything 'curry' and took it back to Britain where it became a
staple of the Victorian dinner party. Later, after the second world
war, Bangladeshi seamen, by opening Indian restaurants and take-aways
in London's East End, helped to make curry Britain's new national
dish.
Curry
is packed with colourful characters, from Elizabeth Gwillims's Indian
servants who refused to serve hare for a dinner party, to culinary
rivalry between the courts of Lucknow and Delhi; from the Rajah
who loved roast black rat, to a young Gandhi surviving in London
on a diet of porridge. Rich with anecdote, this meticulously researched
book is vivid, entertaining and delicious!
Lizzie
Collingham is a research Fellow at Jesus College, Cambridge. Her
doctor thesis was a study of the 'nabobs' of the British Raj. In
addition to her impeccable scholarship, she writes with a lightness
of touch, which will ensure that Curry will appeal to historians
and foodies alike.

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